
Finding all the information you need to do a motorcycle restoration can be a challenge. Learn how to shop for a vintage bike, find reliable transport providers and other restoration experts. Check out our articles and resources to help you on your way.
By Ken Freund
When shopping for a collectible motorcycle, it's necessary to consider many factors. You'll have to decide if you want to buy a machine needing at least some restoration, or buy one that's already finished. With really rare machines, you may have to settle for whatever is available. More-plentiful brands and models will allow you to indulge your whims more; perhaps you may find everything from a basket case to a running bike to a concours winner offered for sale.
You also need to decide if you want the bike to ride occasionally, or if it will just be for display at shows. If a motorcycle won't be shown, exact originality and correctness is not as critical (unless it is to you). Many bikes have matching frame and engine numbers, find out if the models you are interested have these and check the bike for them. Mismatched parts reduce the collector value.
If you intend to show your bike in competition, there are more considerations, which can add to the cost of purchase or restoration. To score well in shows, a bike must appear in "as-new" showroom condition. In a restored class, even slight damage such as dented gas or oil tanks, fenders, headlights, etc would disqualify the cycle. In any case, this damage costs money to repair or replace, and these costs need to be carefully and realistically considered when shopping.
A motorcycle may be painted any authentic color available for the year of manufacture. Any type of paint (enamel or lacquer) may normally be used if the final appearance simulates the original finish. A paint color that is incorrect for the model or year, or in poor condition, will result in a point deduction. An older restoration that shows wear, such as chipped paint, a dull finish, or deteriorated plating will be scored lower. About the only exception is moderate exhaust pipe bluing, which is allowable.
Over-restored bikes can also lose points in judging. For example, parts that were originally rough-cast should not be polished and parts that were painted should not be plated or powder coated.
There are now also classes for unrestored original machines, sometimes called "survivors," which are merely cleaned up somewhat with the dust removed, but essentially in the condition they were found in an old barn or garage. This recognizes the fact that a machine is only original once. Unrestored vintage motorcycles are allowed to have minor nicks and scratches, but should not have significant damage or missing parts.
Original-condition motorcycles are expected to have faded and worn painted surfaces, and other signs of wear and age. The finish on parts added to an unrestored original bike should show the same degree of wear as the rest of the motorcycle. Replacement parts must maintain the bike's old appearance, with nothing that looks reconditioned or new. If an unrestored bike has parts which have been restored to as-new condition it may be disqualified from an unrestored class.
Inspection
Regardless of what condition the bike is supposed to be in, it still needs to be inspected carefully prior to purchase. Don't buy the first bike you see and don't shop at night. Bring a friend who is familiar with motorcycles and may notice things that you miss. Know the characteristic flaws of the models you're shopping for. Request that the seller not have the bike warmed up when you get there, but do ask if the bike will start. If the bike is rideable, do a pre-ride safety check and then take it for a careful test with a helmet and full safety gear.
It's easy to don "rose-colored glasses" and overlook or minimize the amount of work and cost involved in restoring. Before shopping, familiarize yourself on the cost of these repairs, including engine rebuilding, polishing, plating, painting, and upholstery. Make a checklist of the following inspection items:
Look for signs of crashes and problems such as a cracked or bent frame, rear swingarm or fork tubes. If the engine is intact, does it run? If so, how well?
Note how the clutch engages, if it slips, and whether it releases when fully squeezed. Also note how the transmission shifts, and the condition of the chain and sprockets (hooked teeth).
Look at both sides of both wheels for dents and cracks and faulty spokes. Most shows don't deduct points for stainless-steel spokes, and these are nice to have. Check forks and shocks for seal leaks, scratches, rust, nicks or bends/twists. Hold the brakes and push down on the suspension, noting how it responds. Test the brakes and controls for lever pull and effectiveness. Inspect tires for cracks, dry rot, remaining tread depth and date code.
Inspect the gauges, electrical system, wiring, battery and lights. Test all lights and switches. The sound of the starter cranking (if so equipped) is a fairly good indicator of the battery's condition.
Plating and polished bright work is very expensive and important. Rust and corrosion can cause all sorts of problems. Deep rust pits can ruin parts or make them very expensive to restore. Aluminum can also corrode badly, leaving pits and missing metal. Fuel tanks are one of the more expensive parts of a bike to buy and restore, and one of the most problematic. Look inside the fuel tank with a flashlight. Check for rust, holes, dents and other damage. Look carefully at the fenders, oil tank, and seat(s). Check the exhaust for scratches, dents and rust.
So-called consumable items, such as tires, batteries, seat covers, chains and sprockets, etc. are more readily replaced than major components, especially on rare machines that are difficult to get parts for. Accurate reproduction parts normally count the same as original when judging a restored class. However, in judging an unrestored class the parts must be original.
Before you buy a bike, inquire about everything related to the bike, including keys, any free/included spare parts, plus the toolkit, sales literature, owner's manual and service manual, etc. Keep notes of all the pros and cons of each bike you look at and take photographs of ones you look at. Effort expended before purchase will pay huge dividends later.